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51 Things About Best Way To Sand Down Epoxy Resin | Sand Resin

  • Nobody likes to reach the end of an epoxy resin project creation process only to find that, in spite of one’s best efforts, the results are far from perfect. Sometimes imperfections in the form of scratches, scuffs, and uneven surfaces happen regardless. It’s important to keep in mind that these projects are not inherently unsalvageable. With the right knowledge and tools, you can fix a variety of problems with your epoxy resin surface including unevenness and scratches. - Source: Internet
  • For tables, If you want a gloss finish, stop at about 3000 grit, then use polishing compounds for the rest. If you want a matte finish, 1000 grit sanded finish will be fine with oil or whatever finish you’re using. Honing oil can also help with various sheen finish levels. Here’s a separate blog post about honing oil. - Source: Internet
  • You can shape your pieces on a 320 grit disc sander, then 400 grit dry (wear PPE designed for dust particulates). From there it’s all wet sanding 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, etc. up to 3000 (some kits go up to 10,000+grit). - Source: Internet
    • sand with 800 Abranet. Abranet is a dust-free sanding material. On a random orbital, on high speed. - Source: Internet
  • The fundamentals of surface preparation are important whether you are bonding, fairing or applying fabrics. The success of the epoxy application depends not only on the strength of the epoxy, but also on how well the epoxy adheres to the surface. Unless you are bonding to partially cured epoxy, the strength of the bond relies on the epoxy’s ability to mechanically “key” into the surface. Following these three steps of surface preparation is critical to primary and secondary epoxy bonding operations. - Source: Internet
  • Wipe with acetone 15 minutes before coating with epoxy. Solvent removes the oil at the surface and allows the epoxy to penetrate. Be sure solvent has evaporated before coating. G/flex Epoxy is optimum for use with oily wood species. - Source: Internet
  • The movements during wet sanding, by hand or with an orbital sander, must be precise and circular. The goal of the first step must be a flat surface. You cannot achieve flatness after the initial step. - Source: Internet
  • First, if you’re epoxy has cured properly and is hard to the touch without imperfections, you can do a light sanding with 320-grit sandpaper in order to scuff the surface so that you can apply your next layer. If your epoxy has not cured properly or you have imperfections, its important to take care of these before you pour your next layer. If your epoxy is still tacky after 12 hours, it is likely didn’t mix the correct ratio of resin and hardener, or you did not mix them thoroughly. In this case, you would need to remove the tacky areas and sand it down, otherwise the layer will remain tacky underneath the new layer or epoxy and you risk your top layer not curing properly as well. This video goes into more detail on how to do that… - Source: Internet
  • No special preparation needed before applying epoxy. If the surface is burnished, possibly by a dull planer or saw blades, sand with 80-grit paper to open pores. Remove dust. - Source: Internet
  • You have to sand to a fine grit first. Ideally you need to get rid of any scratches seen to the eye, before starting to polish. Work through the grits (from lower number such as 80), up through all to around 2500/3000 (or higher depending on project), then start polishing. Make sure scratches from previous grit are gone before moving to next grit. Wet/dry sand paper (or zona papers) is ideal for these projects. - Source: Internet
  • All you do is apply your epoxy blend to your surface and drape the peel ply on the top. Make sure you smooth the peel ply out with a spreader so that there are no air bubbles. Once the epoxy has cured, you can just peel off the peel ply and you’re ready to apply your next layer. - Source: Internet
  • To give your item a final buff you can use either the polishing ball fitted onto a drill, a buffing wheel or both. Lastly, you want to apply the wax to the item, and hold it against a spinning flannel wheel. This should leave your epoxy resin, smooth, polished and looking absolutely stunning. - Source: Internet
  • Use 0000 steel wool and rub in a circular motion. Allow at least 36 hours cure (brand dependant) before rubbing the coating, or it may scratch or mar rather then resulting in a satin finish. A good spray finish to put over this, is Liquitex Soluvar Spray Varnish for the satin finish. Some spray varnishes can react with cured resin, but this one has been used by numerous resin artists successfully. If your painting is going to be hung in a spot where light over high gloss is an issue, or someone prefers non high gloss finish, this is a possible alternative solution. - Source: Internet
  • Knowing what you want to sand is instrumental to deciding how you should go about sanding it. For instance, if it’s a smaller resin piece with more detail, it’s a good idea to sand it by hand. Larger flat pieces are easier to tackle with a power sander. Also consider that power sanding takes away slightly more material, so you want to focus on the grit that will definitively going to remove those imperfections. - Source: Internet
  • Any synthetic resin surface, once hardened, can be polished. Wooden boards, artistic creations, floors, repaired objects, or furniture refurbished with epoxy resin are suitable for this process as long as it is done with care and precision. In general, polishing requires three phases; flattening, progressive honing, and buffing/polishing. - Source: Internet
  • Despite the dust, a freshly sanded surface is about as clean as a surface can get, but there is always an urge to rub your hand over it to check for smoothness. This is not a good practice unless you are wearing a clean glove. This is because your skin may deposit oils on the surface, contaminated the surface you’ve just prepared. The salt on your skin may speed corrosion of metal surfaces, resulting in epoxy adhesion problems. - Source: Internet
  • Continue until you have finished sanding with the 2000 grit sandpaper. Check the item until you are satisfied that you have sanded all convex and concave blemishes from the item. This must be 100% before moving on. - Source: Internet
  • Amine blush, a byproduct of the epoxy curing process, may form under certain conditions. This waxy film is water soluble, but many organic solvents are ineffective for removing it. That is why we suggest washing an epoxy surface with water (water clean enough to drink) using a Scotch Brite™ pad (or wet sanding with waterproof wet/dry sandpaper) and drying it with paper towels before continuing with another operation. Soapy water, or water with ammonia or bleach, is not necessary and may leave its own residue, which is another possible surface contaminant. - Source: Internet
  • The manufacturers of sticky tack rags maintain that wiping a surface with their products will not leave a residue. However, it is probable that the rag will leave a residue although most paints and varnishes contain enough solvent to remove or dissolve the residue. Epoxy, in contrast, contains none of these aggressive solvents. Residue from sticky tack rags can cause adhesion problems and fisheyes in subsequent coats of epoxy. An alternative surface preparation method is to use a dry tack rag that will leave no residue. - Source: Internet
    • then use the 1200 - 1500 - 3000 Trizact clear coat sanding disc abrasives. Wet on the same random orbital. Only water, no soap needed. - Source: Internet
  • If your surface is hard to the touch, follow these steps to prepare for your second coat, and what to do to make sure that your final finish comes out nice and smooth. Can You Sand Epoxy? Now, you might be asking: can you sand epoxy? The answer is, yes. In fact, it is an important factor in being able to add a second layer of epoxy. You can also give your surface a light sanding in order to achieve less gloss/shine if you desire. But thats a tutorial for another time… - Source: Internet
  • If, however, your surfaces have a large amount of encapsulated bubbles or debris, then you will want to start with low grit sandpaper of low grit (such as a 40 or 60 grit) and carefully make your way up. By working your way up, you’re removing the scratches produced by the previous grit’s sanding to ultimately come to obtain a smoother, glossier finish. Keep in mind, the lower the grit, the deeper it digs. Work your way up the grits slowly. Otherwise, the scratches the lower grits leave will remain. - Source: Internet
  • Pouring the 2nd Coat When you have sanded down the first coat and finished preparing for the second coat, then you are now ready to pour on the second layer of epoxy resin. When doing this, you want to be generous with your pour so that the entire area is well coated with liquid and the self-leveling feature will work better. It is also best to mix a large amount at a time so that you can pour continuously before the resin hardens, and so you do not run out mid-pour. - Source: Internet
    • If your piece has wood, and you’re trying to keep the wood dry (which you don’t have to), or keep the wood from too fine sanding, tape it off. That way, a little water under the tape isn’t a concern, but you can sand the epoxy to a really fine grit, and keep the wood closer to 320-400 for a finishing product. You can always dry the wood quickly after sanding with a blowdryer or heat gun on low (and keep it moving). - Source: Internet
  • Whatever the project you’re working on, you’ll need several coats of epoxy resin and hardener. Most projects need between two and four. However many coats you’re planning on, you need to recoat at the right time and in the right way and ensure your surface is properly prepared. - Source: Internet
  • Amine blush appears as a wax-like film on cured epoxy surfaces. It’s a normal by-product of the curing process and it’s easier to spot in cool, moist conditions. Even though amine blush can prevent bonding to further layers of epoxy, it is water soluble and easy to remove. - Source: Internet
  • Use a soft microfiber cloth to remove the polish from your project’s surface. For larger projects, repeat the process in a new area. Make sure to wipe up any leftover resin polish or streaks once you’re done! - Source: Internet
  • Zinc stearate is applied to some types of sandpaper to keep it from loading quickly. Stearate, a chemical similar to animal fat, has the potential to create a contaminated surface just by sanding. We suggest you use aluminum oxide or waterproof wet/dry sandpaper that has not been treated with stearate. - Source: Internet
  • One thing to remember before you do any resin sanding is that you should always wear a respirator. When you sand resin, you’re reducing it into breathable particles and you shouldn’t inhale them. A good practice is to wear a respirator and safety glasses and be in a well-ventilated workspace. Our friends at Alumilite provide additional safety tips. - Source: Internet
  • As you sand, ensure all pits and divots are sanded properly. This is critical and must be adhered to. If you move up from one grit level to the next and have missed any blemishes, they will be noticeable when it comes time to buff the item. This will mean having to start the entire sanding process again. - Source: Internet
  • Regardless of what you’re applying epoxy resin to, you should always have the material prepared beforehand. Always ensure its surface is clean and dry, and by this we mean free of contaminants or debris and devoid of any moisture. You can also sand down materials down to make the surface easier to adhere to—just be sure you neatly wipe away the sanding residue. - Source: Internet
  • To remove the blush, wash the surface with clean water (not solvent) and an abrasive pad, such as Scotch-brite(TM) 7447 General Purpose Hand Pads. Dry the surface with paper towels to remove the dissolved blush before it dries on the surface. Sand any remaining glossy areas with 80-grit sandpaper. Wet-sanding the epoxy will also remove the amine blush. If a release fabric is applied over the surface of fresh epoxy, amine blush will be removed when the release fabric is peeled from the cured epoxy and no additional sanding is required. - Source: Internet
  • At the end of the day, when you sand something, you’re removing material. You thus must ensure there is material there to take away. If you don’t have a thicker resin surface to begin with, you should consider alternative approaches. For instance, you could start with a higher grit and carefully take the time to sand it out. - Source: Internet
  • To check the epoxy is appropriately sticky, you can perform what we call the ‘sticky-tape test’. When you put your finger on some sticky tape, you can feel the stickiness but no glue actually comes away from the tape. Similarly, if you can put a gloved finger on your epoxy-coated surface and it feels tacky – but no glue comes away – then you’re at the right stage to apply another coat. - Source: Internet
  • Unless you’re using WEST SYSTEM’s blush-free 207 Special Clear Hardener, amine blush may appear as a wax-like film on cured epoxy surfaces. It is a by-product of the curing process and may be more noticeable in cool, moist conditions. Amine blush can clog sandpaper and inhibit subsequent bonding, but this inert substance can easily be removed. - Source: Internet
  • Adhesion with epoxy varies. G/flex epoxy is the optimum choice for bonding plastics. Hard, rigid plastics such as PVC, ABS and styrene achieve better adhesion with good surface preparation and an adequate bonding area. After sanding, flame oxidizing (by quickly passing propane torch over the surface without melting the plastic) can improve epoxy bonding in some plastics. It’s a good idea to conduct an adhesion test on a plastic that you are uncertain about. - Source: Internet
  • Sanding and polishing your epoxy resin project doesn’t have to be a daunting process. In fact, if you have any questions about what we’ve discussed, we’re here for you. Be sure to read our FAQs page or contact us with any concerns you may have. - Source: Internet
  • Make sure you are wearing gloves, if you haven’t been to handle your cured pieces. Then move the resin from the middle of your coaster to the outer edges with circular movements with your finger. This is sometimes easier to do if you pick your coasters up from the cups to handle them. All you’re doing is pulling the resin from the middle with your finger till it’s covering the whole of your coaster. This will self level, so don’t worry if it looks bumpy at this stage. - Source: Internet
  • Many resin craftsman, say they will not leave dribbles down the sides, or attempt to spray coat with cloudy varnish. Sanding, cutting then polishing is considered the professional finish, by many. Yes, it is a ton of work. - Source: Internet
  • Epoxy surfaces that have not fully cured may be bonded to or coated with epoxy without washing or sanding. Before applying coatings other than epoxy (paints, bottom paints, varnishes, gelcoats, etc.), allow epoxy surfaces to cure fully, then wash and sand. - Source: Internet
  • Note: Putting a wax or polishing compound on unsanded resin doesn’t really accomplish much, you have to get the finish to a minimum 3000 grit polished sanding. It’s worth the work. You just lightly sand it with each grit. And you don’t need to spend hours on it with each stage, just enough so that the higher grit removes the scratches from the previous grit. Once you’re done sanding the resin will pretty much be back to shiny again, then the polish will gloss it up beautifully. - Source: Internet
  • All you need to do is wash the surface thoroughly with clean water and an abrasive pad and then dry it with fresh paper towels to rub off the amine blush before it dries on the surface again. Then, sand any glossy areas of the surface with 80-grit sandpaper to ‘key it in’ and clean away the dust. Now you can apply your next coat of epoxy. - Source: Internet
  • If you have an uneven surface to begin with, epoxy resin can be used to make it more level to great effect. Inherently, all of our resins have self-leveling properties that help them flow to coat a surface evenly. You can also use them to seal surfaces that are porous or have little holes, such as wood or stone. A seal coat can helpful for when you want, say, to pour resin over a wooden countertop. Applying a seal coat first will increase the likelihood of a more even surface. - Source: Internet
  • Preparing for the Second Coat When you are all done with the sanding and are happy with the smoothness and evenness of the surface, then you need to begin preparing for the application of the second coat. To do this, you want to make sure that you have a clean surface and work environment that will be free of debris and dust. These things may end up in the epoxy as it dries and sticks to it. This will cause imperfections and may leave the item in the layer. - Source: Internet
  • Then get some of the resin on your fingers and rub it around the edges of your coaster too. Not enough so that it drips, but just enough so it seals in the gilding paint/pen colour. This gives the coaster and the edges that little bit more protection. - Source: Internet
  • There are some materials that epoxy does not adhere to all that well no matter how you clean the surface. However, most adhesion problems can be traced to some form of surface contamination. The sources of contamination can be subtle or obvious, but when you absolutely must have good adhesion, the substrate must be clean. - Source: Internet
  • Sanding, Buffing and Polishing, is not always necessary. Sometimes a dome coat or a flood coat of clear resin is all that is needed (and can sometimes be the easiest). In some cases a flood coat vs wet sanding and oil/polish is a matter of preference. - Source: Internet
  • To apply the topcoat of resin, mix a small amount of resin that will cover the top of your coasters, leave this clear. Once fully mixed simply pour a small amount into the middle of each coaster. Don’t worry if bubbles do form, these can be dispersed further down the line. - Source: Internet
  • According to some of the best casting epoxy artists, when resin is polish sanded, it has such a different feel to it then unpolished resin. It feels like glass and looks amazing. They swear it is worth the extra effort. - Source: Internet
  • With the sanding complete, you can now proceed with buffing the item. Apply a small quantity of the rubbing compound to a polishing cloth and begin rubbing it onto the surface of item robustly. Leave it for a moment, and then use another part of the cloth to buff it off. - Source: Internet
  • If the epoxy is wet but cured enough to support the weight of the next coat, you can just apply another coat to create a ‘primary bond’, which is a bond between the epoxy layers at the chemical level (intramolecular bonding). However, as your epoxy blend dries it becomes harder to create a primary bond, so you’ll need to achieve a secondary bond (intermolecular bonding). Secondary bonding includes dipole-dipole bonding and hydrogen bonding. Mechanical bonding can also be achieved when liquid adhesive flows into surface cracks and cures, thereby ‘keying in’ to the surface. - Source: Internet
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