54 Tips For Cleaning Plastic Miniatures Of Paint

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54 Tips for How Do You Remove Paint From Plastic Miniatures | D&D Beyond

• The go-to product (something we should all have around the house) is Motsenbocker’s for latex paint and for oil paints (both shown). Mr. Motsenbocker, is there anything you can’t do? How to know what paint you have it key. - Source: Internet
• Sometimes you have a small bit of paint that is more stubborn than the rest. This happens more often in the detailed areas of your model where primer or multiple paint layers on poorly painted models have really built up. In these instances, a wooden toothpick can really come in handy for getting into those little places and scraping away the layers without being too harsh like metal would be. The wood will bend and break before doing too much damage, unlike metal picks will. - Source: Internet
• After two hours in Simple Green, the paint was starting to come off the bases and the sand to shift. A bit more of the crusted black primer came off the mini on the left – still, almost nothing from the one on the right. Clearly, Simple Green would need to go into Stage 3 for the overnight stage. - Source: Internet
• ELO (easy lift-off) is by far the best paint remover for models and miniatures that I have found. It has been specifically designed to remove paint and decals from model surfaces. It works well on all types of paint and has really fast results. I can strip an entire model in just a few minutes with a little bit of this and an old toothbrush. - Source: Internet
• Latex will become gooey when exposed to certain solvents.* Acetone is the best way to tell if dried paint is latex (most nail polish removers have acetone), but rubbing alcohol will also dissolve latex, just more slowly. Video of me doing this test is at the very bottom. - Source: Internet
• Disclaimer: An individual part with many gaps/edges is going to be very difficult to isolate and strip on it’s own. You can, but you’re going to find it difficult not to hit whatever is below! Usually, this can just be repainted however. Much better than redoing the whole model. In the case of the model I’m showing this on, I’m likely going to end up stripping the blue armour between the wings of gold. - Source: Internet
• In this guide we’ll take you through the steps as I strip a model of my own. This is an old Plastic Ork Warboss, who was painted somewhere around 10-15 years ago. While the colours might all be in the correct places, I know I can paint this better today. - Source: Internet
• Rubbing the Biostrip on, you’re able to simply bring the paint away in a matter of seconds, the issue arising from paint that you can’t reach in the recesses. If you find that you’re having trouble getting the paint out said recesses, simply leave the Biostrip to soak in for a while, and come back to scrub it off. Dabbing a paper towel, or using a toothbrush to reach hard spots, is also useful here if you find parts difficult. Make sure you rinse any excess Biostrip off when you’re finished, or it may bleed on to other parts of your miniature. - Source: Internet
• Did you enjoy this article? You could always tip the author with a coffee (or something stronger). If you want to pick up some Biostrip 20 or any of the paints used in this guide then check out Element Games. They have great deals on a wide range of minis, paints and basing materials. Finally, make sure you’re following us on Instagram to stay up to date and get involved in our community! - Source: Internet
• No matter the reason for doing it, you are on this page because you have now come to the decision that you want to learn to strip the paint from your minis and do it safely without damaging the minis or your health. My preferences are for stripping chemicals that are safe for the environment and your home. You can certainly find others that recommend some of the chemicals that I say to avoid, and in the end, it will just be your choice. - Source: Internet
• I ruined a collector’s item once because I guessed at how to remove paint from plastic: it turned a G.I. Joe bald. I hope this all helps. - Source: Internet
• Pipe cleaners are a great way to get into the small areas that you can’t reach with a toothbrush. They help to remove paint so that you can get a smooth primer layer as you get going on the new paint job. I like to use actual pipe brushes with synthetic bristles rather than the pipe cleaners that you used for crafts when you were in grade school. This set works great and doesn’t cost too much. - Source: Internet
• One of the major problems with using brake fluid is how caustic it is. Left for too long it will cause pitting on metal models and dissolve plastic and resin models. Most automotive fluids are unsafe for the environment and used fluids should be taken to authorized disposal centers. Brake fluid is definitely on the list of fluids that need proper disposal and is not safe to go down the drain. - Source: Internet
• With miniatures where you can use masking tape, all we need to do is dollop on our Biostrip 20, wait, and scrub off when ready. It really doesn’t take long, you can essentially begin scrubbing the instant you apply the Biostrip 20. I myself like to use a Q-tip/cotton bud to apply the paint stripper. - Source: Internet
• If the model will be touched often, it should be painted with enamel/oil paint. Acrylic paint will need special sealers to allow for repeated handling. Object airflow: Because acrylic paint expands and contracts, it works best on porous materials where air passes freely through the object. On plastics or metals, acrylic paint will only work if applied in between a sealing base coat and a top coat. - Source: Internet
• Acrylic paints are a favorite amongst modelers due to their easy cleanup, affordability, and availability. They are produced in a wide variety of colors and can be combined to create new ones. If you think you’d like to try using acrylic paint on your next miniature, exploring the medium’s characteristics and benefits will be helpful as you make your decision. - Source: Internet
• Something I discovered in the course of this investigation is that this, for some reason, is a pretty controversial topic. Everyone, it seems, has their personal favourite method of stripping paint off minis. It’s clear that we need a fuller investigation of this subject. So let’s call this Chapter One. - Source: Internet
• After you are finished, take a couple of minutes to clean up the area where you stripped the paint. This is just to make your spouse or roommate(s) happy. A well organized hobby area is great for creativity and lets you get going at any time. - Source: Internet
• I wish that I had never seen this recommended out there, but unfortunately, I have seen it in more than one forum. Yes, gasoline is a solvent, yes, it will dissolve some paints. But, It will also dissolve some models especially resin ones. Just don’t do it the risks of using gasoline, even in well ventilated outdoor areas just isn’t with the risk in my opinion. - Source: Internet
• Do not do this over an open drain such as in a sink. There’s a good chance that the paint stripper will weaken the glue on a model, so small parts are likely to come off while cleaning. There’s no point stripping a model in the first place if you lose it’s head down the drain! - Source: Internet
• Acrylic paints are fast drying and can be thinned with water and acrylic medium to apply very fine layers. Use thin coats to accent surface detail. Thick coats of paint will fill in smaller grooves and lower your opportunities to add highlighting washes. Detail washes can be applied over the base coats without any danger of blending or bleeding. - Source: Internet
• Those is the Simple Green have also fared better. The undercoat on the mini on the right has started to come off, but large amounts remain. And the paint on the base hasn’t entirely come off the mini on the left. - Source: Internet
• 2. Has it dried up? Let’s start with what we have around the house, then we’ll look at some solvents and paint removers (and stock up for next time). That old paint remover is now illegal for good reason. Read the Washington Post about new law from the EPA, or you can it on the EPA’s website. - Source: Internet
• – For years, this has been a go-to product for US wargamers, but until fairly recently it wasn’t available in the UK. Nowadays, it’s even manufactured this side of the Pond. I made sure I was using the concentrated form of this popular multi-purpose cleaner. Methylated Spirits – The traditional UK paint stripper for generations. Methylated spirits (known as “meths” and not to be confused with “meth”) is a concentrated and poisonous form of alcohol, dyed blue and vile tasting to discourage its abuse by alcoholics. - Source: Internet
• The bristles on the toothbrush will help to remove paint from the majority of your model quickly, which has been softened up by your chemical of choice. Sometimes you will just need a little bit of elbow grease to get the job done. Just recycle your old toothbrush, no need to go out and get one specifically for this. - Source: Internet
• One of the most common reasons to strip paint is that you have found a good deal on a poorly painted lot of minis on a site like eBay or bartertown. I have purchased minis on both sites with mixed results. When you get those minis out of the box, they can sometimes have so much paint that the model is hardly recognizable, and painting over the top just isn’t an option in that case. - Source: Internet
• In today’s vlog I’ll tell you how to strip a plastic miniature with an ultrasonic cleaner. Stripping miniatures, especially plastic ones, seems like something difficult, but in reality it is not. To do this I used a concentrated degreaser and a ultrasonic cleaner, generally used for jewelry. Knowing how to strip miniatures is useful for those who are fan of old Warhammer miniatures for example and struggle to find them in a new or in good condition. With this technique you can buy the worst painted miniatures you can find in the markets at bargain prices and make them look good as new. - Source: Internet
• The most important thing for Simple green is that it needs to bethe concentrated formula. The pre-diluted formula will clean your models and make them smell nice, but won’t really touch the paint job. Most of the spray bottles that you see on the store shelves are the pre-diluted version. I have only found the concentrated version at my local hardware store or online in gallon-sized bottles. - Source: Internet
• I use small disposable containers that hold about a liter of fluid. I can fit several minis at a time in the container without worrying about them fitting. Any container with a removable lid will work, but I like to keep to inexpensive plastic. - Source: Internet
• Learning how to add acrylic mediums, extenders, and thinners will help you create many different paint effects. The various mediums help extend the handling qualities of the paint. Some thin the paint, some add texture (which is useful for making small-scale versions of particular finishes, like plaster and stucco), some change the opacity, and some even allow you to use the paint on fabric. Gloss mediums will give your piece a shiny look, and matte varieties will mute the finish. - Source: Internet
• Then it’s just a case of continuing to rinse and brush until the paint is completely gone from the model. I tend to find that a toothbrush can remove 95% of the paint on a model. For harder to reach areas, you can normally use a toothpick to come in afterwards and scrape the remaining paint out. - Source: Internet
• I use isopropyl alcoholwith my resin 3d printer to clean the prints before I cure them. If you leave resin in it too long it will definitely go soft on you. Isopropyl alcohol works on water-based acrylic paint just fine, but it doesn’t work so well on other types of paint. - Source: Internet
• GSW Paint Remover, capable of removing acrylic, enamel, and lacquer-based paints. Completely safe for miniatures in plastic, resin, or metal. Can be reused several times and has low evaporation. Very low smell. - Source: Internet
• Student quality is usually above the standard of craft paints. Craft paints are typically more opaque and include fillers. Unlike artist acrylics, craft paints are not always rated for pigment content or lightfastness (how a color lasts with light exposure). - Source: Internet
• Simple Green’s results after the first hour of immersion were confusing. The miniature on the left, after a gentle brushing, gave up about 90% of the paint on the miniature itself. But a fair amount of black undercoat is left visible in recesses and cracks. The painted sand/glue mix on the base and the painting on the rim of the base itself was barely touched. - Source: Internet
• Before removing old paint, make sure it contains no lead. Did you hear that it causes irreversible damage to the brain, liver, and kidney? With this kit, you can take 5 samples, send them into the EPA approved lab and the cost of the lab is included in the purchase. I’ve looked at other kits that have hidden fees. - Source: Internet
• Because acrylic paint expands and contracts, it works best on porous materials where air passes freely through the object. On plastics or metals, acrylic paint will only work if applied in between a sealing base coat and a top coat. Drying time: Oil paints take longer to dry and allow more time to adjust the coat. Acrylic paints are fast-drying, so once you’ve started, you have about an hour until it’s completely dry. - Source: Internet
• The miniature on the right lost its upper coats easily but the undercoat refused to shift. It’s possible this was a different primer coat. As a rule, I alway undercoat with HyCote Matt Black and these two minis came from the same set at the same time so should have been undercoated with the same paint. It’s a mystery why the paint isn’t coming off this one. Also, neither base has had the paint or sand come off, even with quite firm agitation with the toothbrush. - Source: Internet
• This is a good all-around tool to use whenever you are hobbying. You can use it to remove mold lines, scrape those tiny bits of paint, remove old basing materials, or start modifying a mini to suit your needs. It is certainly a tool that you already have so you shouldn’t need to go out and find a new one just for stripping paint. - Source: Internet
• LA’s Totally Awesome is the best value for your money. In my experience, it works the best of the fluids that are not specifically formulated for stripping paint from minis and models. You get enough to strip a ton of minis. For most people, a gallon jug will last for years if you only use it for stripping paint. It is non-toxic and can start stripping minis after just a short soaking period. - Source: Internet
• Both miniatures in the meths have had their bases almost fully stripped (the residual staining is mostly just that). More of the undercoat has been released by the second hour’s dip. Still, it’s not what I was hoping for. - Source: Internet
• I treated each pair of miniatures with the product for one hour. In the case of meths and Simple Green, this meant immersion without agitation. In the case of BioStrip20, it meant being painted onto the miniature liberally. A degree of agitation from the paintbrush was inevitable but kept to a minimum. - Source: Internet
• Wet acrylic paint can be removed from brushes and other surfaces with soap and water. If you only mix small amounts of paint at a time, you can use a flower palette with a cover so you can save unused paint when you leave your work. Paint stored under a lid will last for up to 24 hours before drying out. Don’t fret if you wait too long before using your paint—it’s possible to peel off the dried paint from the palette, and you can start the process once again. - Source: Internet
• You most likely have a set of files that you use during assembly to remove mold lines and the like. I have found that quite often, the models that were painted poorly were usually put together poorly as well. That goes for the ones I put together as well as the ones I find on eBay. Generally, when we were starting out we didn’t take the time to really clean up the models as well put them together. This is a chance to go over the model and freshen it up by getting rid of any mold lines that were missed in the initial assembly process. - Source: Internet
• There are a lot of reasons that you might want to strip the paint from a mini and start over. For me, I don’t always strip the paint in order to start over. It is more a factor of how much paint is already on the mini, how much fine detail is present, and is any of it getting lost by the paint thickness? A lot of newer painters don’t properly thin their paint and doubling up on that much paint can really start to be noticeable. - Source: Internet
• Use acrylic paints on materials that breathe and do not trap moisture like paper, wood, terracotta, bisque. If you use acrylic paints on nonporous materials like metal, plastic, or resin, you’ll need to apply proper undercoats and overcoats to prevent it from absorbing moisture. Enamel paints are usually a better option, as nonporous materials do not breathe, so anything painted on them needs to dry perfectly and not swell or contract. - Source: Internet
• 1. Is it still wet? Keep it wet! Apply the paint’s known solvent right away if you can. Not sure about the solvent? Start with paint thinner (mineral spirits). Lighter fluid and gasoline will work too. - Source: Internet
• Brake fluid will absolutely remove paint, and it will do it quickly. My dad was a mechanic, so growing up I got a lot of exposure to working on cars. To this day I still do the vast majority of maintenance on my own vehicles. Once when changing my brake pads I accidentally dripped a few small drops of brake fluid onto the painted surface of my firewall. It ruined the finish quicker than I could grab a rag and wipe it up. - Source: Internet
• And finally, as far as the BioStrip goes, elbow grease is your only option. I’m reliably informed that both meths and Simple Green will go into an ultrasonic cleaner (anywhere from £16 to £130). Without any brushing at all, it will apparently leave miniatures sparkling and can be poured back into the bottle afterwards. - Source: Internet
• The paint here is extremely thick, but it doesn’t matter, some determined scrubbing and a rinse, and in about 4 minutes our model has the strip we wanted stripped. Strip. We can then peel back the masking tape to reveal the area we want to repaint, very useful if you mess up a certain effect or ambience you want to get perfect! - Source: Internet
• Acrylic paints come in a wide variety of forms. You can learn to blend your own colors using artist quality (also called professional quality) tube acrylic paints. Artist quality paints have a more saturated pigment and include much less filler than student or craft quality paints. - Source: Internet
• Green Stuff World: Acrylic paint remover, removes acrylic, enamel and varnish paints. Completely safe for plastic, resin or metal miniatures. It can be used repeatedly and has a low evaporation rate. Very faint odor. - Source: Internet
• Acrylic paints never completely dry out. They are hygroscopic and will swell slightly with moisture. They are not for heavy wear items. If you need a hard, lustrous coating for miniatures that will be handled often, use oil/enamel paints. - Source: Internet
• Castrol Super Clean is another really good product for stripping paint from models and minis. I also use it to clean the oil and grease from my garage floor with great success. It is a strong cleaner that does well with stripping paint from your models. - Source: Internet

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