This time around, we shall cover Installing A Sink In Butcher Block Countertop. Obviously, there is a great deal of information on In every issue you’ll find… on the Internet. The fast rise of social media facilitates our ability to acquire knowledge.

Installing Faucet In Butcher Block-related material is also connected to How to Cut, Seal and Install Butcher Block Countertops and Butcher Block Sink. As for further searchable items pertaining to How To Install Butcher Block Countertop With Farmhouse Sink, they will likewise have anything to do with can you put a sink in a butcher block countertop. Installing A Sink In Butcher Block Countertop - Butcher Block Countertop Sink Ideas

57 Shocking Facts About Installing A Sink In Butcher Block Countertop | install kitchen sink in butcher block countertop

  • When we first started planning our renovation, I thought that the cabinets would be the biggest challenge. Painting a kitchen’s worth of cabinets took a while, but it ended up being fairly straightforward. No, the beast of this renovation ended up being the butcher block countertops. - Source: Internet
  • Put sink into place and secure with brackets below (provided with Ikea sink). Reattach all the plumbing and if you have a new faucet to install, do that at the same time. Make sure to use a water-based kitchen and bath waterproof adhesive caulk before laying down the sink. DO NOT use the oil-based silicone because the mineral spirits clean-up will remove the Waterlox top-coat. - Source: Internet
  • Let me start off by explaining my choice for butcher block. Had I a larger budget, I probably would have opted for white stone counters, because I love an all-white kitchen. However, I needed to make the most impact to our kitchen, with the least amount of money out of pocket, and our realtor informed us that the updates that we have already made on the house, has already put us ‘at or above’ our neighborhood, so spending a bunch on nice counters wouldn’t be a worthwhile “investment” from a house-value perspective. Additionally, I knew they would add warmth to the space to balance out the “cool” blue walls, and I could finish them with a super hard topcoat, making them virtually worry-free. - Source: Internet
    1. Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish At our duplex, we white-washed the butcher block, then coated it with Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish. I am not a chemical engineer, but I would say this option is halfway between Butcher Block Oil (#1) and Poly (#2). It seals the surface more than the Oil and is more flexible than Poly. This Watco products is also food-safe if you seal an unfinished piece of wood, but we stained ours…and once again, Butcher Block countertops are not for prepping food. We used Watco Oil and Finish in this kitchen because we want the countertop to be resilient to guest use at this short-term rental house. - Source: Internet
  • You should know that Boos recommends against this approach* since it leaves cut edges of the countertop exposed to water, and water can seriously damage wood, as you likely know. Consequently, a butcher block positioned above a sink will require special attention and extra care. Most importantly, you must be careful to prevent water spray from hitting the exposed edge of the cutout. Also, as with any butcher block countertop, be sure to immediately wipe up any spills or splashes and to avoid placing wet glasses or dishes on the counter. - Source: Internet
  • Traditionally, butcher block is assembled with the end grain facing up so the surface looks like a grid of squares. This is the most durable option and won’t show knife marks even with heavy use. However, this is the most expensive option and can be difficult to find. - Source: Internet
  • I thought finding butcher block would be easy—several bloggers I know used IKEA countertops. We headed there only to find they didn’t carry an island piece wide enough to span our counter and the bar overhang. They do have a few island-sizes options now, but as far as I can tell, they aren’t even real wood — they are particle board with a veneer. This wasn’t a great option because we needed to connect two pieces to span our large counter. - Source: Internet
  • After sanding with the highest grit, you need to raise the grain of the wood by wiping down the entire countertop with a damp cloth. The wood will absorb the water and expand slightly, leaving a rough surface. Once it’s dry, sand one last time with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the raised fibers. - Source: Internet
  • I’m only using butcher block on our kitchen island, so I didn’t have to deal with any corners or sink cut outs. If you have a lot of cuts to make, make a template out of cardboard first. Then you can transfer the design directly onto the countertop to minimize errors and maximize your materials. Check out the video below for tips on how to create a countertop template. - Source: Internet
  • IKEA is a common place to start when shopping for butcher block countertops. They offer a few different wood species and sizes at an affordable price. However, many of their countertops aren’t solid wood, but rather a thin veneer of nicer wood over a cheaper wood core. - Source: Internet
  • If your butcher block countertop arrived unfinished , you will need to apply a finish to all faces of the top. See detailed instructions here . , you will need to apply a finish to all faces of the top. See detailed instructions - Source: Internet
  • To prep for our cut, Scott drilled pilot holes, 3/8″ in from all four corners, making sure it went all the way through to the ‘top’ of the counter. We turned the butcher block over so that we were looking at the top of the countertop, and all we could see were the fresh pilot holes. Using those holes as a guide, we then used a 3/4″ bit to create a rounded edge, mimicking the corners of the sink. By drilling from the top-down, we were able to get the cleanest edge on the exposed side of the butcher block: - Source: Internet
  • Set the cutting depth on your saw so that it cuts all the way through the material in one pass. This butcher block countertop is 1 ½" thick, so I set the depth to one click past that measurement on the track saw. Make sure the saw is set for a 90 degree cut. - Source: Internet
  • Prepping our butcher block for the sink was the larger task of the day, but a bit of patience, pushing aside our nerves and a lot of sanding did the trick! We’ll be installing the NORRSJÖN stainless steel sink from IKEA, which doesn’t come with a template. Instead, we were instructed to outline the cabinet box on the underside of our countertop, turn the countertop upside down, and finally, trace the sink to its proper location. Our sink is an undermount, so we then used a scrap piece of 3/4″ wood to trace an inside line, which would be the exact size of our cutout: - Source: Internet
  • Do not lay your butcher block countertop on the floor once you receive and unwrap it. This may cause cupping as the wood acclimates to the environment. It is best to lay it out supported by pieces of 2 x 4 wood - placed on their edge - that are long enough to span the entire width of the top and spaced about 18 inches (46 cms) apart. This allows for adequate air movement for acclimatization. - Source: Internet
  • -One item left out of here was the cabinet doors. The new apron front sink interfered with the doors by about 1.5”. I took the doors apart, cut out 1.5” and glued them back together. - Source: Internet
  • I recommend General Finishes High Performance Top Coat for sealing stained butcher block countertops. It’s super easy to apply, and holds up really well to wear and tear. They even have a super flat version if you want to keep the natural wood look with the added protection of a top coat. - Source: Internet
  • We turned the countertop over again, so that we were back to looking at our outlines of the sink. Scott used a jigsaw and a steady hand to connect the dots, so to speak, while I held my breath the entire time! Once all four sides were cut, we flipped the butcher block (are you sensing a theme?) so that we were once again looking at the top. I might have panicked. At this point, it still looked a little rough, but Scott worked his magic and fine tuned the edges with the jigsaw, and I followed that up with a good dose of sanding on the orbital, starting with 50 grit paper and working my way up to 220 grit. I hand sanded the corners, until they were perfect, rounded edges! - Source: Internet
  • Ryan and I considered installing the butcher block ourselves for a hot minute, and then realized that the cost of renting or buying the necessary tools and supplies would probably cost us as much as it would to hire someone. Our kitchen is not a straightforward layout. If you have two long stretches in a galley kitchen, for example, you might be able to give it a shot. Ours involved cutting six separate pieces, plus the sink. - Source: Internet
  • For an apron-front sink, there will need to be a small notch cut out of the corner of the pieces of butcher block that butt against the sink. Use sink instructions or measure the width and length of the notch and mark the corner of each corresponding segment. Use a jigsaw with a fine-tooth on the hardwood setting to cut the notch out. Go slow to get the straightest cut. - Source: Internet
  • Boos strongly recommends that you apply a polyurethane finish to the underside of your block, around the perimeter of the cutout. If yours is oil-finished, you should also periodically apply polyurethane, or beeswax or paraffin wax at minimum, to the exposed edge of the butcher block. If you sight a water spot that appears to have penetrated the countertop’s finish, you can treat it by placing a warm iron on a soft cloth placed over the spot. - Source: Internet
  • Installing butcher block was more of process than I imagined it would be, but seriously, I love them so much. They warm up the cool colors of the cabinets and are absolutely gorgeous. If you have any questions at all about our process, ask away in the comments! - Source: Internet
  • With either approach, the sink is mounted beneath the countertop so that the top of the sink contacts the bottom of the wood countertop. This makes it easier to wipe down counters in a sweeping, unobstructed motion. The farmhouse style of sink differs from the standard under-mounted sink in that the former lacks a front countertop edge altogether. Instead, the farm style sink, which is typically much larger, protrudes to or beyond the front of the base cabinet, allowing kitchen workers to stand closer to the sink and in a more comfortable posture. - Source: Internet
  • Prepare your cabinets for installation by drilling a ⅝ inch (16 mm) hole in each of the four corners of the cabinet assembly. In addition, ⅝ inch (16 mm) holes should be drilled along the back and front sides of the cabinets, approximately every 24 to 30 inches (61 to 76 cms). For most butcher block countertops (typically 25 ½ inches or 65 cms in depth), this will be all that is needed. For butcher block countertops or island tops more than 30 inches (76 cms) deep, a row of holes should be drilled in the middle of the cabinets, parallel to the holes drilled along the back and front. - Source: Internet
  • But! Perhaps the best part of a butcher block counter is the ability to DIY. We completed a much, much smaller version in our laundry room, and we still love how much character it brings to that tiny space. This job was larger, sure, but our process was similar, and the results are just as pretty, we think. - Source: Internet
  • I thought getting butcher block would be fairly straightforward: Buy butcher block. Install butcher block. Love butcher block. The end. - Source: Internet
  • If you’re going to cut directly on the countertop, you should not use any toxic wood stains or top coats that could get into your food. Food safe finishes that contain natural ingredients such as beeswax or mineral oil are your best bet. They will repel moisture without introducing any unwanted chemicals. - Source: Internet
  • We chose butcher block countertops for the kitchen for two reasons. First, it is forgiving. Nicks and scratches can be sanded out if we want. Simple periodic oiling will keep it looking great. Second, with quite a bit of white and other flat, smooth surfaces, we wanted the warmth and coziness that wood brings to a home. - Source: Internet
  • Our trouble spot this week was the kitchen sink. We had trouble finding a sink we could buy off the shelf locally because most people’s kitchen sinks sit in a 30” cabinet. We have a 24” cabinet. That meant we had to order a sink online. The first sink I ordered arrived with a crack and the finish on it was poor. - Source: Internet
  • These steps can feel intimidating if you’ve never installed plumbing fixtures, but it is easy. A life hack my dad taught me is to flip the countertop upside down and install the sink and faucet first. Way easier than hanging half your body out the cabinet after the install. Apply sealant first and set the sink. Then, install the drains, faucet, and garbage disposal. - Source: Internet
  • Check out the video below for an overview of the process if you’re interested in making your own butcher block countertops! https://youtu.be/8qQgcL-MQkU Video can’t be loaded because JavaScript is disabled: How to Make a Butcher Block Countertop // DIY Woodworking (https://youtu.be/8qQgcL-MQkU) - Source: Internet
  • This section will focus on oil based polyurethane. First we used a metal scraper to clean the surface before sanding to prevent the previous wax and oil finish from clogging the sand paper. Skip this part if you have an unfinished countertop. - Source: Internet
  • It was returned, and the search was on for something else. I found another great option and ordered it. Luckily, it arrived damage-free and the finish was exactly what I wanted - a smooth black granite composite. The composite sinks are heat resistant, nonporous, and scratch and water spot resistant. - Source: Internet
  • Get a Finish Blade on your circular saw (60 teeth is what I used), then measure the distance from the fence to the blade. An easy way to do this is to clamp a straightedge to a piece of scrap wood, then run your saw fence against the straightedge and make a shallow cut. That distance is what you can set the straightedge to on the butcher block. IMPORTANT NOTE: Be aware of which side of the blade your measurement is on. The blade width is ⅛”, and you want to make sure that is accounted for. - Source: Internet
  • I started off with a few coats of butcher block conditioner. Just squirt it over a section of wood and rub it in with a clean rag. You can see the difference between the finished and unfinished sides of this maple wood countertop below. - Source: Internet
  • I bought this lovely ’60s cast iron enamel kitchen sink on craigslist (and a “hudee ring”), and am obtaining some repurposed bowling alley wood out of which to cut a countertop. But it suddenly occurs to me that the sink may be too damn heavy… it’s probably like 50 lbs or something. Is this project doomed? And if there is anything I can do, do you think it worth the trouble? I like the sink a lot but it was only $10. - Source: Internet
  • Not much by comparison. We got ours at Menards for $180 for a 96”x25” piece. But all hardware stores sell it. We used 3 pieces so total cost for countertops in this kitchen = $540 - Source: Internet
  • Clamp them into place, pre-drill the holes, and then attach with the 3″ screws. Since we re-used the screws that held the previous counter in place, I didn’t list their exact size (diameter-wise), but they were 3 inches long, which is not the full length that goes into the 2″ thick counter. There was about 1 1/2″ gap from the piece of wood on the cabinet base from where the screw started, to the underside of the butcher block counter. - Source: Internet
  • Initially we followed the schedule of waxing our wood kitchen countertops monthly, and our new countertops looked shiny and pretty for the first year. But, life gets busy, and we started skipping the regular maintenance. Then our kitchen countertops started looking worse, and worse. - Source: Internet
  • Is it a small gamble to put butcher block in a rental unit? Probably. But for the cool price of $225, it’s a risk we were willing to take. We don’t expect them to look pristine in 1 year, 2 years or even more, but just like our decision to use solid brass hardware, it’s a material that patinas well over time, and if push comes to shove, a good sanding can knock down problem areas in the future. We’ve always had a soft spot for a well-loved butcher block top, and the hope is that our future tenant will agree. - Source: Internet
  • An exciting thing happened the day we went to buy our butcher block countertops – they were on sale! Marked down to $109 from $159, we hauled away two slabs (one for each side of our little galley kitchen) before they could tell us it was a mistake. And that – that price! – is one of the reasons why we decided to take a bit of a risk and go with butcher block in the garden apartment. To our Chicago friends, we picked ours up at the Menard’s on Clybourn Ave. They always have a full stock! - Source: Internet
  • What is best method to use for installing a stainless steel kitchen sink in butcher block countertops? Undermount means no rim for water to seep under which is great, but that means mounting the faucet directly on the butcher block which seems to be asking for trouble in terms of water splashing all over it. (I don’t care how careful you are – that’s bound to happen alot.) Also, it seems that the possibility for cracking and splitting increases by mounting the faucet on the buther block. - Source: Internet
  • If you are going to replace your sink with a new one, now is the time to do it, just make sure you measure correctly so it fits in the space you have. We did not measure correctly (or rather, I did not measure correctly) and I had to rebuild some lower cabinet parts so I could make room for an additional 6 inches of sink. I had my heart set on a farmhouse style apron-front sink and at only $300, Ikea’s was the best value for our budget, so I was determined to make it work. Regardless of the brand of apron-front sink you choose, they come with clear instructions on the cut-out dimensions for the counters, in order to fit the apron-front. - Source: Internet
  • We started on the stove wall first, since it would essentially be two simple cuts – one for each side of the range. We always measure in three places – back, middle and front (even if it is just a cabinet base, because you never know!). Measurements were recorded on the sink wall as well, and then we got to work with cuts! - Source: Internet
  • They had lots of choices, from economical to downright gorgeous. This being our budget renovation, we chose the American Maple, which they had in stock. We needed two 8′ x 24″ pieces, and one 6′ x 36″ island piece. It came to about $800, which was a bargain compared to pretty much any other countertop option we researched. - Source: Internet
  • For the first part of the project, we cut all of our different pieces of butcher block: the 6-foot countertop, the backsplash, the end cap for the lower cabinets, and the sink inserts. We also used the router to cut the hole for the sink as well as create the inset channel for the sink lip. Finally, we drilled the holes for the faucets. - Source: Internet
  • You can also use a circular saw to cut your countertop down to size. You’ll want to use a straight edge or a circular saw jig to make sure it’s cutting a perfectly straight line. Check out this article on the difference between a track saw and a circular saw for more info on these tools! - Source: Internet
  • When I installed the sink, I sandwiched a bead of adhesive caulk between the bottom of the butcher block and the top lip of the sink. That would probably be enough, but just to make sure, we installed another bead of clear silicone to the exposed gap between sink and countertop. We used painter’s tape to get clean lines on top and bottom. - Source: Internet
  • But it was much more than that. Today I want to share a few things we learned about butcher block countertops, so if you make the same decision, you’ll know the process ahead of time. A word of warning — this will be a long post, but when we were working on our install, I really appreciated detailed posts, so I’m assuming someone else will need all the details I share here. - Source: Internet
  • You apply a stain before installing the countertop. We brushed on a mix of Minwax Dark Walnut and Varathane Special Walnut, then wiped off the excess. Note: We ended up using two different kinds of butcher block woods for the countertops so had to mix the stains to get them to match, more details on BUTCHERBLOCK highlight on @ISPYDIY. - Source: Internet
  • If you’re making a sink cut out, you can use the track saw to make a plunge cut along the straight sides first, then use a jigsaw to finish off the corners. Use a hole saw to drill holes for the kitchen faucet and soap dispenser. The video below goes into more detail about how to cut a sink hole in a wood countertop. - Source: Internet
    1. Polyurethane My buddy bought dark butcher block for his condo and applied one coat of polyurethane. Poly repels water and stains and makes for easy clean up. But it will scratch when the coffee maker is slid across the counter. Also, as stated in the intro, butcher block is just the name, and does not imply one should practice knife skills on the countertop. Especially with a polyurethane coat. - Source: Internet
  • (Full Disclosure, we didn’t actually stain and seal at Step 3. We stained first, and then we restained the lip of the sink after cutting, and then I just went ahead and installed the sink, so sealing was actually the last step. But that makes us sound crazy if I actually recommend doing it that way.) - Source: Internet
  • Request a butcher block with sink quote below. Additional drawings or specifications can be emailed to glumber@glumber.com. - Source: Internet
  • -One thing I learned was to not stress out about the cuts. Don’t let the fear of messing up stop you from this project. Definitely measure three times to ensure you are correct and even try a practice cut on a scrap piece of wood. The worst thing that can happen is you have to drop another $200 on a new 8’ piece. And you’re still thousands of dollars ahead for a new granite countertop. - Source: Internet
  • It all started with a sink! I fell in love with this Crosstown® Stainless Steel Farmhouse sink a while back, then Elkay® reached out to see if I had a spot for it in one of our renovation homes. And my response was: I’ll make a spot! Since we were already working on the kitchen renovation at The Bayview Bungalow, the timing was perfect. And I am so excited to partner with Elkay on this project to show the whole process of cutting the countertops and installing, because we get SO MANY questions about butcher block countertops. And now we have an info-packed post about it! - Source: Internet
  • One of the things we discovered was that our butcher block has a nice, clean side, and a side that is a little less so. It wasn’t a problem—we just put the wrong side down and the right side up. But definitely know that going into it and make sure you’re looking at both sides of the slab before you take it home. There were definitely pieces that were in better shape than others, and since you could see the bottom under the bar overhang, we chose the piece that looked best on one side. - Source: Internet
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