60 Things You Need To Understand About Stabilizing The Floor Under The Toilet

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60 Things You Should Know About How To Reinforce Floor Under Toilet | Floor Around Toilet Is Wet

• Return the supply valve to the on position, and allow the tank to fill until the tank fill valve shuts off. Flush and repeat this step four or five times to ascertain that the flange seal is watertight. Using a hacksaw, carefully cut the brass toilet bolts to a height about ½” above the tops of the nuts. Snap on the decorative plastic caps, and apply a bead of bath caulk around the toilet base and floor to provide for a sanitary seal. - Source: Internet
• More than likely, the toilet had been mounted to the flange with a round wax seal. Use a paint scraper (or putty knife) to scrape off all wax from the flange, as well as any wax thay may remain on the bottom side of the toilet base. Although the photo of a new wax ring shows a nice, clean appearance, the old wax ring will likely be discolored and flattened. Get everything as clean as possible, and use a rag to wipe the underside of the toilet base and the floor flange. - Source: Internet
• Remove the lid to the tank and place it in a safe location where it will not be dropped or damaged. With the supply valve in the off position, flush and hold the toilet tank lever down until as much water as possible empties out of the tank. Make sure that no new water enters through the fill valve in the corner of the tank. - Source: Internet
• I always replace toilet bolts when I reset a toilet, or install a new one. There are two sizes of bolts available: ¼” and 5/16” in diameter. I am partial to the latter because they hold more securely on older, worn floor flanges. - Source: Internet
• The most common cause for a sinking bathroom floor is water damage. Bathroom floors typically become weakened in two areas. The first is around the bathtub, which is a result of years of water splashing around the sides of the tubs or dripping down the address. Water damage is also common around the toilet base, which is usually the result of worn sealant around the toilet or unaddressed leaks. - Source: Internet
• The next step is to remove the flooring in the bathroom. This process will vary depending on the material of which your flooring is made. If you have hard stone or tile flooring, the easiest way to remove the floor will be to use a pry bar or a chisel and hammer. If you have laminate or vinyl flooring, you can use a prybar to lift the floor initially and then use your hands to pull the pieces away from the subfloor. If you have a hardwood floor, a prybar or a chisel and hammer will work best to remove the flooring. - Source: Internet
• We have run into this issue numerous times and our repair technique has to vary on each one but only slightly. First if the toilet is leaking then typically its from an old wax seal that is past its life or from lack of support under the toilet causing excessive movement. It can be a combination of both or even an old or faulty toilet. - Source: Internet
• To install the curved metal strap, first loosen the two screws that secure the flange to the floor. Insert a new closet bolt into the slot in the strap, then slide the strap under the flange (step 5). Tighten the flange screws to lock the strap in place. Install the remaining closet bolt in the flange. If the bolts won’t stand upright, pack a little wax from the old gasket around the base of each one. - Source: Internet
• Cutting flooring to fit around a toilet flange is not particularly challenging, because any inaccurate cuts will be hidden by the toilet. The most important consideration is to have the surface of the flange come as close to the level of the floor surface as possible, without being at the same level or higher. This method ensures that the wax ring that seals the toilet doesn’t leak. If the flange has already been installed, you can use a flange extender to raise it. Extenders come in various thicknesses. - Source: Internet
• Now that you have access to the floor joists, take a look at all of them to determine whether or not they need replacing. If so, mark the ones that need replacing with a pencil or a piece of painter’s tape. You’ll also want to get the measurements for the joists as well. If the joists are simply wet but not damaged, give them 24 to 48 hours to dry completely before replacing the subfloor. - Source: Internet
• Replacing floor joists is necessary if they have become rotted from water damage. Keep in mind that attention to detail and accuracy are crucial to the safety of the floor once the joists are installed. Let’s look at the steps to do it. - Source: Internet
• Before replacing the floor, you’ll want to make a list of all the tools that you’ll need. This will keep you from having to run back to the store during the middle of your project. Let’s look at the most common tools and materials you need for this type of job. - Source: Internet
• Next, replace or any damaged joists once the room has dried out–or reinforce any joists that have become loose. It’s best to use wood similar to the current joists for consistency. Also, be careful when replacing the joists, as you’ll want to make sure that you have secure footing on top of the joists at all times. - Source: Internet
• Your final step is to tighten the loose end of the water-supply tube to the shutoff valve (step 10). Open up the valve and flush the toilet several times. If a leak occurs, press down on the bowl and tighten the nuts a little more. If it isn’t leaking, use the toilet for a couple of weeks, then pry off the bolt caps and retighten the nuts. The toilet will often settle after several uses. - Source: Internet
• Remove the screws holding the old flange to the floor, then place the extender on top of the flange. Rotate the extender until the slots for the closet bolts and the screw holes are exactly aligned. Drive the flange screws back into the subfloor. - Source: Internet
• Tighten the flange bolts slowly and carefully, alternating back and forth between each until both are snug. Use a maximum of a 6” crescent wrench and do NOT overtighten. A nut that is tightened too much, even half a turn, will crack the ceramic base and send that toilet immediately off to the dumpster (and you back to the store to purchase a brand new toilet). Once the nuts are snug, tighten a quarter turn at a time and apply a slight twisting motion to the toilet base to make sure that it cannot slide or rotate. - Source: Internet
• You’re now ready to set the toilet back in place. Grip the bowl near the seat hinges, lift up the toilet and walk it over to the flange. Set the toilet down onto the wax gasket, using the closet bolts as guides. Slip the washers over the bolts and thread on the nuts. However, before tightening them, press down on the rim of the bowl with all your weight to compress the gasket (step 8). - Source: Internet
• Reconnect the supply line to the toilet tank. Most times this connection only needs to be hand tightened. But if you need to use pliers, use care as the plastic nut will crack easily if overtightened. - Source: Internet
• There’s a long-standing debate in the plumbing world over whether you should caulk around the base of a toilet. Most plumbers don’t because they’re concerned that the caulk would conceal any leaks. However, in some municipalities, the local building code requires homeowners to caulk around the toilet to keep bacteria from growing in the joint. - Source: Internet
• If water is leaking from beneath the toilet, you might be able to stop it by simply tightening the closet bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. Use a putty knife or slotted screwdriver to pry off the caps that are covering the bolts. Then use a wrench to alternately tighten each bolt, a little at a time. Be careful not to apply too much pressure; you can crack the toilet’s base. - Source: Internet
• For example, if your bathroom has vinyl or laminate flooring, it will be cheaper to replace it than hardwood flooring. And if the subfloor and joists beneath it also need replacing, this will cost anywhere from $1.50 to $4 per square foot for materials. Labor costs can range anywhere from $10 an hour to $28 an hour, depending on where you live. - Source: Internet
• After you remove the flooring, take a good look at the subfloor. Is it damaged or rotting? If it is, you’ll want to remove it as well. To do this, you can use a hammer or screwdriver to remove the nails or screws for the subfloor and then a pry bar to lift the plywood panels from the joists. Make sure that your new subfloor panels match the previous panels in thickness and size. - Source: Internet
• Actually, you won’t see the heads of the bolts, you will see the nuts and washers. The head of the bolt is slid into a slot in the floor flange. Tightening the nuts pulls the toilet and flange together, making a solid, non-moving seal with the wax ring. - Source: Internet
• PVC floor flange with stainless steel ring. The wax residue is from the prior installation. These bolts are the new ones that will be used. - Source: Internet
• Water pooling around the base of the toilet is a good indication that the wax seal has failed. But in some cases the problem lies elsewhere. Soak up the water from the floor with a sponge and dry off the toilet with a towel. Wait until a new puddle appears on the floor, then check to make sure the water is seeping out from under the toilet and not coming from a loose supply tube, faulty shutoff valve, cracked tank or sweaty bowl. - Source: Internet
• The thing you should know before you start raising the bathroom floor is that this is a very time-consuming project. You may want to consider the other options first. However, if you do decide this is what you want to do, you’ll need to invest in a thicker kind of flooring. - Source: Internet
• This area can be used to fill any gaps with a flooring compound that you can sand down. However, if the floor is already level, you won’t need this space. It’s best to use a level to make sure the subfloor is even before installing the flooring. - Source: Internet
• The first step in replacing a seal is to turn off the water supply to the toilet tank. Most baths have a small supply shut off valve extending from the wall, just below the tank. A supply hose or tube connects the valve to the tank. If the shut off valve is newer, it can be operated by hand. Use pliers to gently turn it to the “off” position if it does not turn easily. - Source: Internet
• Take a new wax gasket and set it down on the closet flange, making sure it’s perfectly centered (step 6). Most wax gaskets are simply a ring of solid wax, but we used Harvey’s Bol-Wax No. 5 (about $5). This one has wax surrounding a core of soft urethane foam, and it easily conforms to the flange and toilet to create a superior seal. - Source: Internet
• Remove the subfloor to gain access to the joists beneath it. To do this, you can use a pry bar or a chisel and hammer to gently lift the flooring. You’ll also need to remove the screws first. - Source: Internet
• After you have installed the subfloor, it’s time to add the new flooring. When installing the new flooring, be sure to work your way backward, starting at the area farthest away from the door. You’ll also want to keep a circular saw or a tile cutter handy, depending on the type of flooring material you have–just in case you need to make any last-minute cuts. - Source: Internet
• Install the new closet flange, screwing it down to the new flooring, and reset the toilet using a new bowl gasket. Inspect the water supply connection and replace it now, if necessary. Refill the toilet, flush it a few times, and inspect the plumbing from under the house, if possible. Caulk around the base of the toilet with a good quality acrylic latex with silicone caulk and you are done! - Source: Internet
• A rotted bathroom floor is typically caused by hidden water damage that slowly eats away at the floor and subfloor beneath it. This damage can also cause the joists beneath the subfloor to lose their integrity or become unstable. Continue reading to learn more about how to repair these issues. - Source: Internet
• The most important thing is not to push the baseboard too tight to the floor, and to leave the proper expansion gap, when you install the flooring and molding. This is what allows the floor to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity. If you’re worried about water spilling, you can add a waterproof glue to the locking system joints while installing. This will help create a more water-tight seal between planks, which is where the floor will be the most prone to water damage. - Source: Internet
• Everything should be as reliable as a toilet. It’s not unusual for one to last more than 40 years with only a minimal amount of care. But, occasionally, water will begin to leak out from under the toilet and spill onto the floor, which can lead to serious water damage. But this type of leak is easy to diagnose and fix, even if you’ve never attempted a plumbing repair. - Source: Internet
• Use a hacksaw to cut the bolts about 1/2” above the nuts. Notice the length of the bolts. Always purchase longer bolts, they are easier to align when setting the toilet and can be trimmed down. - Source: Internet
• The first thing you do if your toilet is leaking at the base is stop using it. Water from a leaking seal will damage ceilings, structural members, and floor sheathing if left uncorrrected. This water intrusion can also introduce mold and mildew into the living space. Fortunately the fix is inexpensive, and requires a minimum of time. - Source: Internet
• Now, mark off the floor in a square or a rectangle that takes in the spongy floor area. Cut out that area with a circular saw concentrating on a steady, even, straight cut. Don’t cut any deeper than the floor is thick because of the possibility of cutting into wires or water lines. Remove the spongy flooring. Cut support lumber, usually 2x6s or 2x8s to fit between the existing floor joists on each side of the hole and install them with long screws, leaving half the width of the support lumber under the existing floor. - Source: Internet
• Now is a good time to inspect the soil pipe and toilet flange for damage or wear. Replace them, if necessary. You can leave the new toilet flange off, stub the new soil pipe up to the floor, and then install the new flange after you have finished repairing the floor. - Source: Internet
• The process of raising your floor is just a matter of adding thickness to it. To do this, you’ll want to first measure how much higher the toilet flange is currently sitting above your bathroom floor. Once you have an exact measurement, go to your local flooring or home improvement store and purchase tile with the thickness that you need. You can remove your old flooring and lay your new flooring down. Once laid, your toilet shouldn’t rock or leak. - Source: Internet
• Every floor mounted toilet sits on, and is bolted to, a PVC or cast iron floor flange. This flange is the entry into the drain-waster-vent (DWV) system of the home. The bottom of the ceramic toilet base seals to the floor flange with a flange seal. Traditionally, the seal was a ring of bees wax. Today, there are other synthetic and more reliable seals available at home centers. - Source: Internet
• If you’re installing a new floor, pedestal sink, and toilet, you should install the laminate flooring first so it’s under the sink and toilet. Because laminate flooring floats above the sub-floor on top of underlayment, it will expand and contract slightly with the temperature and humidity of the room. This makes it impossible for any caulking around the base of the sink and toilet to hold. - Source: Internet
• If the bolt spins freely and the nut won’t tighten even if you hold the bolt with pliers, or if the bolt spins and the “last guy” cut the bolt off at the top of the nut so that you can’t grip it, then you will have to remove the toilet and look underneath for the cause of the problem. You will probably have to drill off the nuts to release the toilet. See Removal of Toilet, Repair, and Reinstallation below! - Source: Internet
• The rotted wood looks to be more of an underlayment for the floor (to build it up or level it out or give a more solid surface for the flooring to attach to). Structure is coming from the boards below. When you tear up the flooring, the underlayment will probably come with it. Plan to replace it. I wouldnt worry too much about it now. - Source: Internet
• Grab the rim of the bowl directly below the seat hinges, and gently rock the toilet back and forth to break the wax seal. Lift the toilet off the floor (step 3) and lay it on a blanket or piece of cardboard. Use a narrow putty knife to scrape off the old wax gasket from the bottom of the toilet and from the closet flange in the floor (step 4). - Source: Internet
• What do you do if your toilet is leaking from the base? Toilet leaks indicate that you may need a new wax ring to seal the connection between the toilet and the drain pipe. It’s a concerning problem with a simple fix! Plus, this DIY home project only takes a couple hours. See our step-by-step guide to fixing a leaky toilet—complete with photographs. - Source: Internet
• Either sit or kneel on the toilet bowl rim or seat lid. Applying your body weight gently compresses the new seal and drives the toilet base down so that it sits flush on the floor surface. Do NOT wiggle or rotate the toilet, just apply straight downward pressure. - Source: Internet
• I can’t tell you exactly how tight to turn them, but you should not overtighten, or you may crack the toilet. As a rule of thumb, try a turn or two a side until you feel resistance, them try to wiggle the toilet bowl slightly. If there is no significant movement, you are probably tight enough. This tightening operation is a “feel” thing you get from experience, so be conservative and use your best judgement. - Source: Internet
• Because wax seals tend to dry out and leak over time, I now use the synthetic Perfect Seal ring on all toilet installs and repairs. This rubber ring allows the toilet to be removed and repositioned if necessary, while a standard wax ring does not. If the flange is level with or slightly above the surface of the finished floor, I remove the blue rubber extension ring. If the flange sits below the surface of the floor, I leave the blue ring in place. Follow the instructions in the Perfect Seal box. - Source: Internet
• I used prefinished quarter round molding and predrilled it for drywall screws. I removed the aluminum piece showing here since it kept the pedestal from resting flat on the floor. The white line in the upper right is bathtub sealant covering the one visible cut in the floor covering. - Source: Internet
• When this problem occurs, there are three different methods you can use to fix this. You can raise your bathroom floor, you can use grout as a filler, and you can replace your old flange with a new one. Read more about the different options and choose the method that’s best for your situation. - Source: Internet
• If you’re installing cabinets or a vanity that is fixed to the flooring, you will install these first. A laminate will not be able to float under a cabinet. Install the cabinets and then use a finishing molding around the edges to cover the expansion gap. - Source: Internet
• PROBLEM: The toilet was not firm on the floor. I removed the toilet from the floor and found the flange gasket intact but the floor rotted around the toilet flange. When removing the toilet, I found the water supply fitting was loose at the toilet. This allowed water to run down the supply line, drip onto the floor, and run unseen over the edge of the vinyl into the flange area of the floor. - Source: Internet
• In this photo, the patch is in place with the flange and pedestal bolts. The cardboard template is shown (and the Winegard WingMan antenna add-on which works very well for DTV, by the way). I’ve cut the floor covering away from the wall behind the toilet and the vanity beside the toilet to gain better access to the damage. I also made a cut near the far rear corner to be able to lift the vinyl out of the way. - Source: Internet
• At this point, I like to place a large sheet of cardboard on the floor in close proximity to the toilet to protect the flooring. Then, with a helper, grab the toilet bowl where it meets the tank, and lift straight upward over the bolts. Gently lay the toilet on its back or side on the sheet of cardboard. Have some rags handy to absorb any small water drips. - Source: Internet
• If the toilet is fitted with an old chrome-plated copper supply tube, consider replacing it with a new flexible one made of stainless steel-enmeshed polymer. It makes the installation a whole lot easier, and it will virtually last forever. We installed a 12-in.-long Fluidmaster supply tube (about $5); other lengths are available ranging from about 8 to 24 in. - Source: Internet
• Precision cutting is key in this type of installation. Cut the flooring around the drains fairly close to the hole. When you install the toilet, screw it down snugly, but not overly tight. If you’re installing a pedestal sink, while it’s heavy, the floor should still be able to expand and contract properly. - Source: Internet
• On either side of the base of the toilet, you will most likely see little plastic “domes”. These decorative covers conceal the closet bolts, and to some extent protect them from moisture. They can be pried off with a screwdriver. If the cover is missing (as they often are), then the bolts should be visible. - Source: Internet
• Replacing a rotted bathroom floor should be a top priority. Not only can the floor become a safety hazard, but it can also spread to the ceiling of the floor beneath it. But what’s the best way to go about replacing the floor? We’ve researched the steps to remove and replace the floor, and in this post, we will share them with you. - Source: Internet
• When your toilet flange is too high, your toilet may leak water and rock back and forth when used. Both the leaking and the rocking can warp or break the floor. A leaking flange can also rot the subfloor and lead to the accumulation of mildew and mold. So, what do you fix this? - Source: Internet

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